2017 5 Étoiles 5 + 750ml, Sauternes

5 Étoiles is a fascinating way to explore the grandeur of Sauternes, drawing on wines associated with some of the appellation’s distinguished estates, including Château Sigalas Rabaud, Château de Rayne Vigneau, Château Lafaurie Peyraguey, Château La Tour Blanche and Château Rabaud Promis. These are names deeply embedded in the history of Sauternes, giving 5 Étoiles an impressive foundation well beyond what its modest label might initially suggest.

The 2017 vintage was a fascinating one in Sauternes. Spring frost dramatically reduced the crop in many vineyards, but the surviving fruit enjoyed favourable conditions later in the season and botrytis developed quickly and successfully. The result was a small harvest of concentrated wines with excellent sweetness and freshness. Sémillon provides the rich, waxy core typical of the region, with Sauvignon Blanc contributing citrus and aromatic lift.

Deep golden yellow, opening with apricot, white peach and orange marmalade before pineapple and quince appear. Acacia honey, saffron and ginger add complexity, with vanilla, beeswax and toasted almond emerging as it warms. The palate is luscious and silky, packed with stone fruit and honey, but a bright line of acidity keeps the sweetness beautifully in check. Candied citrus, saffron and apricot linger through the long, gently spicy finish.

Roquefort with toasted walnuts is a classic for very good reason, while tarte Tatin, crème brûlée, foie gras or a peach and almond tart all have plenty to recommend them. Our pick is the Roquefort, with its salty bite cutting through the honeyed richness and making another sip virtually compulsory.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035.