2017 Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Moussiere, Loire Valley

Biodynamic and hand harvested. The beautiful, gently rolling Moussière vineyard with cultivated, incredibly rocky, limestone-rich soils, lies on the ancient Saint-Doulchard belt which forms a part of the great Kimmeridgian chain (à la Chablis).

This terroir, when coupled with this house's meticulous biodynamic farming and low yields, is responsible for some of Sancerre's most striking and atypical wines. Those who crave substance, purity and tension in their white wines will be well advised to jump aboard. As usual, 50% of this wine underwent fermentation in huge wooden fermenters and was raised in oak casks—a fact that in no way compromises the fabulous line, elegance and energy. The balance of the wine was meanwhile fermented and raised in traditional concrete vats, before blending.

All of the wine was aged on fine lees for a period of roughly 12 months, further enhancing the wine's famously deep and pulpy texture. In 2017, this flesh is shot through with ripe citrus, pear and nettle fruit notes, all balanced by pithy freshness and a long, saline finish. Stunning and far too impressive to be called an ‘entry-level’ wine.