2017 Arras Blanc de Blancs, Tasmania

A spectacular Blanc de Blancs. It is a wonderfully elegant, complex wine with an enduring base of grapefruit, lemon and apple accented with nuances of sea spray, crushed stone, ozone, white peach, grilled nuts and apple pastries. It boasts the finest aromatics of the new releases and the time on lees has built a layered palate of brioche, lemon curd, crème fraîche and proving sourdough. The detail and tension on the palate is spot on, with an elegance of structure. The wine slowly fades with soft spice, grapefruit and apple sorbet, the flavours stretching on for a good time indeed.

96+ points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Arras Blanc de Blancs from Tasmania is one of Australia’s most finely sculpted and ageworthy sparkling wines, crafted entirely from cool climate Tasmanian Chardonnay and shaped by Ed Carr’s uncompromising pursuit of world class méthode traditionnelle. The fruit is drawn from some of the island’s coldest, highest and most maritime influenced vineyards, where ancient sandstone, basalt and ironstone soils combine with bracing winds and long, slow ripening seasons to produce Chardonnay of piercing acidity, purity and remarkable concentration. Extended lees ageing, often for many years beyond Champagne norms, gives the wine its signature creaminess, savoury depth and extraordinary longevity.

The aromatics unfold with quiet confidence. Lemon zest, white peach and green apple form the core, joined by grapefruit pith, nectarine and subtle pear notes. Beneath the fruit lie layers of toasted brioche, almond meal, sea spray, flint and a faint echo of oyster shell, all shaped by its long rest on lees. As the wine relaxes in the glass, hints of acacia blossom, hazelnut, chamomile and crushed stone reveal themselves, adding a sense of precision and cool Tasmanian energy.

The palate is taut, textural and beautifully balanced. A fine, persistent bead carries citrus and orchard fruit across a silky mid palate that draws richness from its time on lees without ever compromising freshness. Lemon curd, peach skin, apple tart, nougat and roasted nuts glide into a chalk edged mineral spine that keeps the wine focussed and elegantly long. The finish is dry, clean and quietly powerful, lingering with citrus oil, florals and a cool saline lift. Even at release it is stunning, but with a decade or more of cellaring it moves into deeper territory: toasty, nutty, honeyed and complex while retaining its fine line.

An exceptional match for oysters, scallops, lobster rolls, sashimi, roast chicken, creamy mushroom dishes, alpine cheeses or something as simple as crisp French fries. Its finesse and depth make it one of the Southern Hemisphere’s standout Blanc de Blancs.