2017 Arras Grand Vintage Magnum 1.5L, Tasmania

69/31% chardonnay/pinot noir fermented in a combination of stainless steel and new tightly grained French oak barriques (6%), disgorged November '24. Finely bubbled, with an expressive swell of grapefruit, lemon, apple and poached pear fruits with underlying nuances of fresh brioche, apple butter, crushed stone, ocean breeze, nougat and crème brûlée. The toasty tones grow on the palate, along with grilled nuts and soft spice. A tight, umami-rich acidity brings everything into line and provides a harmonious cadence as the wine sails forward. Finishes long and true with just a light phenolic texture and ample complexity.

96+ points Dave Brookes Halliday Wine Companion

Tasmania has become one of the world's most exciting regions for serious sparkling wine, and few names have done more to establish its reputation than House of Arras. Founded in 1995, the house has been shaped by the extraordinary dedication of sparkling winemaker Ed Carr, whose patient approach to extended lees ageing has helped put Australian sparkling wine on the international stage. Fruit sourced from Tasmania's cool climate vineyards gives the Grand Vintage its remarkable freshness, structure and complexity.

Brilliant pale gold with a fine, persistent bead. Lemon curd, white peach and baked apple mingle with toasted brioche, roasted hazelnut and a hint of sea spray. The 2017 vintage combines beautiful richness with vibrant citrus acidity, while extended time on lees adds creamy texture and intricate savoury notes. The finish is long, elegant and wonderfully complex, with the finesse to challenge some very serious Champagne.

Magnificent with freshly shucked oysters and champagne vinegar, butter poached marron with finger lime, or crisp potato rösti topped with smoked trout and crème fraîche. A sparkling wine worthy of a special occasion.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035. Already wonderfully complex, with the structure and acidity for further development.