2017 Benjamin Leroux Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy

Screwcap. Mostly from Volnay and Pommard, there is a good portion from Maison Dieu in Volnay, Mont Pellans in Meursault and some from Estate vines in Pommard. Then there’s a good glug of Dames Hugettes, which lies in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits above Vosne-Romanée, and, lastly, roughly 15% Monthelie (villages and 1er Cru). The élevage in 2017 was a roughly equal split between 50-hectolitre Grenier cask and 228-litre Burgundian pièce. There is no new oak and the grapes here are mostly destemmed. More than ever, this is touchstone Bourgogne. It is just so fine, perfumed and juicy. Expect aromas and flavours of red cherry, rose and a hint of spice before a powdery, well-defined, racy finish. So fine and pretty and so damn delicious.

“For once it is more actual Bourgogne, including Maison Dieu, then plenty from Meursault, a quarter Dames Huguettes and some village Monthelie. Very pretty stylish fruit, I love it, and there is just enough weight and good fresh acidity at the back. Long and fine for Bourgogne Rouge