2017 Best's Great Western Old Clone Pinot Noir, Great Western

Old clone Pinot Noir from Best’s is a bit of a hidden story in Great Western, where the Thomson family has been farming since the 1860s. These heritage vines, some of the oldest Pinot plantings in Australia, sit on gravelly loam over clay, producing naturally low yields and wines with both delicacy and quiet depth. In 2017, a cooler, more even season has given a particularly composed and detailed expression.

Aromatics lean toward the savoury and developed spectrum, red cherry and dried strawberry alongside rose petal and a gentle spice note. There is a clear earthy thread running through it, forest floor, dried herbs and a hint of game, giving the wine a mature, Burgundian feel.

On the palate it is light to medium bodied, with silky tannins and a softened line of acidity that reflects its time in bottle. The fruit has moved into a more tertiary space, dried red berries, spice and earthy complexity, finishing with a subtle savoury edge that lingers.

Winemaking at Best’s is traditional and hands on, with a focus on preserving the character of these old vines rather than overworking the wine. The result is a Pinot that feels authentic and evolved, offering a glimpse into both site and age.

This sits beautifully with dishes that echo its savoury nature. Duck, game birds or mushroom based dishes all work effortlessly, and it also pairs well with vegetarian options like lentil and herb dishes or roasted root vegetables.

Right in a lovely drinking window now, it offers mature complexity without losing its structure, with a few more years still ahead for those who prefer further development.