2017 Best's White Gravels Hill Shiraz, Great Western

 
Hand-picked, open-fermented with 70% whole bunch, 30% whole berry, 14 months in French barrels (15% new). Wow. It has its own personality, its spiced tannins dancing around blackberry and satsuma plum fruit. The finish and aftertaste are utterly superb.

97 points James Halliday winecompanion.com.au November 2019 

From one of Australia’s oldest continuously producing family estates, White Gravels Hill draws on a distinctive patch of pale, quartz rich soils in Great Western that naturally deliver structure and lift. The Thomson family has been farming here since the 1860s, and this wine reflects that deep understanding of site, a Shiraz that leans toward spice, detail and longevity rather than sheer weight. The 2017 season, cooler and more even, has allowed the vineyard to show itself with real clarity.

Aromatics sit in that classic Great Western spectrum, red and dark berries, plum and blackberry, with a strong line of pepper, clove and spice. There is a floral lift of violet, alongside savoury notes of olive, earth and a faint smoky nuance that builds with time in the glass.

On the palate it is medium bodied and finely structured, with firm, persistent tannins that give the wine its backbone. The fruit is concentrated but not heavy, carried by a line of fresh acidity that keeps everything in balance. Flavours move into more savoury territory, spice, dried herbs and a subtle mineral edge, finishing long and composed.

Winemaking is handled with a traditional, measured approach, allowing the vineyard character to lead while oak adds quiet support and structure. The result is a Shiraz that feels both classic and ageworthy, showing more finesse than power.

This is a natural partner for dishes with depth and savoury character. Lamb, slow roasted beef or game all work beautifully, and it also pairs well with vegetarian dishes like mushroom ragù, roasted eggplant or spiced lentils.

Right in a strong drinking window, it still has the structure to evolve further, developing more complex notes of leather, spice and earthy depth over the coming years.