2017 Evoi Wilyabrup Reserve Chardonnay, Margaret River

Magnificent chardonnay. It's had everything thrown at it and it's all worked. Struck match, white peach, candied citrus, grapefruit, sweet cedar wood and meal; all play roles here. The overall effect is one of power and substance. Twist the cap and you immediately know that you're in the presence of something special. Every glass is like a full-length movie.

97 points Campbell Mattinson winecompanion.com.au Mar2022

NZ-born Nigel Ludlow has a graduate diploma in oenology and viticulture from Lincoln University, NZ. Time at Selaks was a stepping stone to Flying Winemaking stints in Hungary, Spain and South Africa, before a return as senior winemaker at Nobilo. He thereafter moved to Victoria, and finally to Margaret River.

It took time for Evoi to take shape, the first vintage of Chardonnay being made in the lounge room of Nigel’s house. By 2010 the barrels had been evicted to more conventional storage and since ’14 the wines have been made in leased space at a commercial winery. Quality has been exceptional.

 James Halliday