2017 Gabin et Félix Richoux Irancy Les Cailles, Burgundy

As I've written before, Thierry Richoux—and now his sons Félix and Gabin—prove that Irancy’s wines can be a revelation. Pioneers of organic farming (and now certified as such), they realize the appellation's potential, limiting their yields, harvesting by hand and maturing their wines for two years—the first year in foudre and tank, the second in smaller oak barrels. Irancy's amphitheater of hills naturally produce rather powerful, virile wines, despite the village's northerly latitude, and that tendency was exacerbated by the warm, dry conditions of 2018, 2019 and 2020; of the three, it's 2019 that retains the most energy and aromatic lift despite its sunny style, but all three are strong successes in their atypically rich register. The real surprise of this tasting, however, was this first look at the domaine's 2021s. "A few years ago, we might have found this vintage a touch light," Félix and Gabin reflected, "but whether it's because we've had so many powerful years, or because our palates are changing, these are now exactly the sort of wines we want to drink!" Supple, melting and vibrant, with exquisitely floral aromatics, readers who privilege sensuality and perfume over weight and power will want to secure some of the 2021s when they are ultimately released.