2019 Garagiste Le Stagiaire Pinot Gris, Mornington Peninsula

Made in a pure-fruited, medium-bodied style that takes its inspiration from Burgundy rather than northern Italy or Alsace, this finely weighted Gris is drawn from a north/northeast-facing site in Merricks. The fruit was hand-sorted in the vineyard and winery, then whole-bunch pressed into to old barriques to ferment using indigenous yeasts. The wine only goes through partial malolactic, to preserve freshness and was matured on its lees in old neutral barrel for six months. No fan of the nondescript, structure-free Gris style that abounds, Barney's versions are well-defined and refreshing examples.