2017 Hartford Court Marin Pinot Noir, Sonoma County

Pale to medium ruby-purple colored, the 2017 Pinot Noir Marin County prances out of the glass with cheery black raspberry, kirsch and redcurrant jelly scents plus suggestions of cinnamon stick, lavender and bouquet garni. Medium to full-bodied, the soft-textured palate has an almost electric intensity, charged with red berries and savory layers, finishing long and wonderfully pure. 250 cases were made.

94 points Lisa Perrotti-Brown robertparker.com

2017 Hartford Court Marin Pinot Noir is a beautifully pure and coastal driven expression of Pinot Noir from one of California’s coolest and most marginal growing areas. The fruit comes from Marin County, just north of San Francisco, where vineyards sit close to the Pacific Ocean and are heavily influenced by fog, wind and cool temperatures. This is extreme Pinot Noir territory, with long growing seasons, low yields and naturally high acidity, producing wines of freshness, savoury detail and restrained alcohol rather than overt ripeness. The soils are a mix of sandstone, shale and loam, contributing to the wine’s earthy, mineral toned character.

Hartford Court was founded in the early 1990s by Don Hartford and Jennifer Altman, with a clear focus on cool climate California sites and site specific Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. From the outset, Hartford Court built its reputation on sourcing fruit from marginal vineyards that emphasise balance and complexity over power. The Marin Pinot Noir is a perfect example of this philosophy, highlighting a region that remains under the radar but is capable of producing Pinot Noir with a distinctly Old World feel. Winemaking is deliberately gentle, with careful extraction, restrained oak and an emphasis on letting vineyard character shine through.

In the glass the wine shows a translucent ruby colour. Aromas are lifted and complex, offering wild strawberry, red cherry, cranberry and rose petal, layered with forest floor, dried herbs and a subtle coastal savoury note. The palate is finely structured and energetic, delivering bright red fruit, earthy undertones and fine grained tannins supported by vibrant acidity. There is a tension and persistence here that speaks clearly of the cool Marin climate, carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. It pairs beautifully with roast duck, grilled salmon, mushroom dishes and herb roasted chicken, and it will continue to evolve gracefully for eight to twelve years, developing more savoury, truffle and spice complexity over time.

2017 Hartford Court Marin Pinot Noir is a thoughtful and character driven Californian Pinot Noir, offering elegance, restraint and a strong sense of place, and a compelling reminder of how compelling Pinot Noir can be when grown close to the ocean.