2017 Keller Dalsheim Hubacker Riesling Auslese, Rheinhessen

The 2018 Limestone Riesling Kabinett was produced from selected parcels in the Kirchspiel and Abtserde vineyards this year. The wine is just beautiful, delivering a marvelous bouquet of tangerine, pink grapefruit, chalky minerality, citrus zest, apple blossoms and an esthery topnote of bee pollen. On the palate the wine is pure, delicate and medium-full, with lovely filigree and grip, great focus and balance, electric acids and a very, very long, complex and dancing finish. A glorious Kabinett! 

RS 40 g/l. Fruit from AbstE & Kirchspiel. Pure, lifted lime and lemon fruit with piercing herbal freshness. Prettily scented with pure citrus on the palate. Doesn’t seem to taste much sweeter than the Limestone (non Kabinett) because of the fruit intensity. Finest of fruit, unencumbered by spice or herbs. Less complex than the Grosse Gewächse but with elegance and a dancing freshness. Unexpectedly persistent, even a little creamy on the finish despite the piercing acidity. Fruit from AbstE & Kirchspiel. 

Julia Harding, jancisrobinson.com

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Seedy huckleberry, seed-tinged apple and chalky suffusion combine for a performance of pithy, piquant concentration. The texture is firm and the overall impression formidable, but even with a finishing rush of apple and lemon juiciness, somewhat austere. I miss the textural allure and salinity of this wine’s Kirchspiel counterpart, or what I termed the “unusual animation and transparency” exhibited by its vintage 2016 predecessor. Possibly I tasted it at an awkward moment; even so, I would be inclined to wait before popping more than the first cork.

91 points David Schildknecht vinous.com

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