2017 Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs, Champagne

The 2017 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Terre de Vertus 1er Cru is creamy, open-knit and quite seductive. Readers will and a generous, sensual Champagne with plenty of early appeal. Vinication and aging in oak softens the contours. Dried pear, crushed flowers, mint and chamomile build beautifully over time. This is a fine effort in a very challenging year. No dosage.

93 points Antonio Galloni vinous.com

The 2017 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Terre de Vertus, which derives from two east-facing plots within the same lieu-dit in Les Barillers, located mid-slope, imparts a very mineral, almost crystalline character. A vineyard that rarely produces powerful wines, even in the context of 2017, it has retained its personality, though it’s a little more generous and slightly less focused than the 2016 rendition. Unfurling from the glass with aromas of lemon peel, honeysuckle and oyster shell, it is medium-bodied, racy and saline-tinged and can be approached before the last year’s release.

93 points Kristaps Karklins robertparker.com

Disgorged May 2023. Terre de Vertus is one of three single-terroir Blanc de Blancs wines produced at this estate and is certainly the most famous. It is from a parcel of vines on the chalky mid-slope of Vertus called Les Barillers, known to produce intensely mineral wines that recall the best of Le Mesnil (to the north) in their chalky raciness and drive.

This fermented naturally, with roughly 60% fermented and aged in neutral barrique and the other 40% in large Stockinger casks. Malolactic fermentation began spontaneously, and the wines were left on their lees for nearly a year. After the second fermentation, the wine aged in bottle for another six years before being disgorgement.

Since the mid-’90s, this wine has always been non-dosé—long before it was fashionable. The Larmandiers made the decision because this particular terroir (when farmed in their way: old vines, biodynamics, low yields, etc.) works best without any additions. With a finish like licking chalk, the resulting wine is one of the most distinctive and mineral wines of the entire Champagne region—and one of the totemic wines of the great grower movement. For us, this is the best Terre de Vertus since 2012 (possibly the greatest year ever for this wine). The 2017 is layered and seductive but with all the crystalline, saline, mineral energy that made this wine famous. It's a profound Terre de Vertus; one that reminds us how close this vineyard is to Mesnil. Try it with oysters, terrine, hard cheeses, roast chicken or grilled white fish.

Larmandier Bernier Terre de Vertus Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs is a stunning expression of single village Champagne, crafted entirely from Chardonnay grown in the chalky soils of Vertus. Pierre and Sophie Larmandier are pioneers of biodynamic viticulture in Champagne and their wines are known for their clarity, depth and absolute respect for terroir.

This cuvée is made from a single vintage and comes from a specific lieu-dit on the mid-slope of Vertus, a site that brings both tension and generosity to the fruit. Fermentation is natural, with indigenous yeasts, and takes place in large oak barrels. The wine is aged on its lees for several years without dosage, allowing it to showcase the full character of the vineyard.

On the nose, it’s pure and detailed with notes of lemon zest, green apple, chalk dust and white flowers. The palate is dry and finely textured with crisp citrus, almond, crushed stone and a long, saline finish. The mousse is elegant and creamy, never overwhelming the precision and vibrancy at the core.

It’s an exceptional Blanc de Blancs for lovers of mineral driven Champagne. Perfect with oysters, sea urchin, sashimi or simply sipped slowly with nothing but good conversation.