2017 Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett, Mosel

The 2017 Juffer Kabinett is also outstanding this year, wafting from the glass in a fine blend of white cherry, lime, a touch of petrol, a fine base of slate, a touch of violet, wild yeasts and just a whisper of the mossiness of Brauneberg on top. On the palate the wine is medium-full, minerality and succulent on the attack, with bright acids, impeccable focus and balance, very good grip and a long, complex and lovely finish. This is not quite as filigreed as the Helden Kabinett this year- that is the nature of the Juffer vineyard, but the wine is a beautiful Kabinett in its own right and offers great drinking already and plenty of potential for aging. (Drink between 2018-2050)

93 points John Gilman viewfromthecellar.com
 
As anticipated from the performance of the corresponding Grosses Gewächs, 2017 is a strong year for Juffer in the Schloss Lieser portfolio. Apple and lime on the nose are lightly shrouded by cheesy fermentative byproducts. But on the palate, there is a remarkable alliance of creaminess and density that is almost custardy with vibrant, bright apple and citrus juiciness. Stony underpinnings and mouthwatering salinity add interest and appeal to a lusciously long finish that irresistibly calls forth the next sip. As with all of the 2017 Schloss Lieser Kabinetts, high residual sugar is successfully balanced out by efficacious acidity and extract. Just imagine this with a few years in bottle and a clear nose!
 
92 points David Schildknecht vinous.com Drink 2020 - 2032

Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett is a beautifully poised and classical Mosel Riesling, drawn from one of the region’s most historic and celebrated vineyards. Brauneberger Juffer lies on steep south facing slopes along a bend in the Mosel River, with blue and grey Devonian slate soils that reflect sunlight and retain warmth, helping Riesling ripen fully while preserving the region’s trademark acidity. The combination of slope, river influence and slate gives Juffer its signature elegance, fine perfume and silky texture, making it one of Mosel’s benchmark Kabinett sites.

Schloss Lieser is one of the great names of the Mosel, revitalised in the late 1990s by Thomas Haag, whose meticulous vineyard work and sensitive winemaking have returned the estate to international acclaim. Haag farms these steep vineyards by hand, with a deep respect for tradition and a focus on expressing site and vintage rather than chasing power. Kabinett is treated with particular reverence at Schloss Lieser, capturing Riesling at its most delicate and transparent, with low alcohol, purity of fruit and remarkable balance. Fermentation is slow and natural, allowing the wine to develop clarity and precision.

In the glass the wine shows a pale straw colour with green highlights. Aromas are lifted and elegant, offering lime zest, green apple and white peach layered with subtle floral notes and a distinct slate driven minerality. The palate is light to medium bodied and beautifully balanced, delivering crisp citrus and stone fruit flavours framed by bright acidity and a gentle touch of residual sweetness that enhances drinkability without heaviness. The finish is long, clean and mouthwatering. It is superb with spicy cuisine, seafood, Asian dishes and light poultry, and it also has the structure to age gracefully for fifteen to twenty years, developing classic notes of honey, toast and mineral complexity over time.

Schloss Lieser Brauneberger Juffer Kabinett is a benchmark Mosel Riesling, offering finesse, purity and longevity, and a perfect expression of one of the region’s great vineyard sites.