2017 Vecchie Terre di Montefili Bruno di Rocca, Tuscany

The 2017 Bruno di Rocca, 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Sangiovese, is more accurately described as a wine of the property, first and foremost. Cabernet is felt in strong, savory and earthy accents in the aromatics, but there is plenty of Sangiovese energy too. Blackberry jam, gravel, spice, menthol and licorice take on a very distinctive Tuscan personality. The tannins could use time to soften. This is impressive, to say the least.

Completely reborn under its new ownership and the team led by winemaker Serena Gusmeri, this dramatic estate lies on the Panzano/San Casciano border. One of its key distinguishing features is elevation; these vineyards at 500 meters in altitude are superbly positioned, especially for today’s changing climate. The wines are rich and quite powerful, but also marked by bright acids. For example, the 2017s are remarkably fresh considering the torrid, dry season. Most of the focus at Montefili is on the 12.5 acres of vineyards. The cellar is best described as tiny, cramped and functional, at best, especially for wines with this level of ambition. That will change, now that work on a new facility will soon go ahead. The wines are fermented in small stainless-steel tanks with ambient yeasts, while aging takes place mostly in medium-sized casks. These are some of the most distinctive Chianti Classicos readers will come across.

95 points vinous.com