2018 Agrapart Vénus Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru, Champagne

Disgorged in August 2024 without dosage, the 2018 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vénus, as always, derives from La Fosse aux Pourceaux, a 0.6-hectare plot of land in Avize planted in 1959, which is farmed solely by man and horse, without the use of heavy mechanical equipment. With texture defined by the maturation in old 600-liter oak barrels, Vénus is more discreet than the broad shouldered Avizoise but more demonstrative than the crystalline Minéral, despite the short distance between La Fosse aux Pourceaux and Le Champ Bouton that defines Minéral. Unfurling from the glass with aromas of honeysuckle, pear, fresh hazelnut and iodine, it is a harmonious wine with an intensely chalky profile, laden with bright acids. More elegant than its 2017 rendition, Agrapart’s desire to capture freshness and precision is very well realized in this edition. Drink 2024-2044.

96 points Kristaps Karklins robertparker.com

The 2018 Agrapart Grand Cru Vénus Blanc de Blancs Brut is one of the most singular and expressive Champagnes produced in the Côte des Blancs. Pascal Agrapart has earned a reputation as one of Champagne’s finest grower-producers, crafting wines that are deeply rooted in terroir and defined by precision and energy. Vénus is the domaine’s prestige cuvée, sourced entirely from a single plot in Avize named La Fosse, planted in 1959 and worked by horse to avoid compacting the soil. It is farmed biodynamically, vinified with minimal intervention, and released in small quantities, making it a collector’s treasure.

The 2018 vintage brought generous fruit and balance to the Côte des Blancs, allowing Chardonnay to show both richness and focus. Vénus is fermented and aged in oak barrels, with natural yeasts, no fining or filtration, and disgorgement done without dosage, keeping the wine bone-dry and crystalline. It reflects Agrapart’s philosophy of letting the vineyard speak, with no make-up, just purity and depth.

In the glass, it is pale gold with a fine, persistent mousse. The bouquet is layered and complex, showing lemon zest, green apple and white peach, alongside notes of chalk, hazelnut, brioche, iodine and delicate floral tones. The palate is intense yet refined, with a powerful mineral backbone, citrus and orchard fruits, and a savoury, saline drive that extends into a remarkably long, precise finish. There is both texture from barrel ageing and tension from its chalky soils, creating a Champagne of profound balance and depth.

Food pairings should highlight its precision and complexity: lobster with beurre blanc, oysters, scallops with lemon and butter, or vegetarian options like truffle risotto or roasted cauliflower with almonds. This is a Champagne that will age gracefully for 15 to 20 years, developing honey, toasted hazelnut and pastry notes while retaining its mineral core.