2018 Brokenwood ILR Reserve Semillon, Hunter Valley

This wine is an unmistakable ILR and is one of the season's highlights. Alluring smoky tones and hints of lanolin adorn the ripe, lemony fruit. The sweet-natured palate is generous, flavoursome and powerful with moreish lemon butter tones. The rate of progression in this wine is driven by the warmth of the '18 season. That said, it is no less lovely, and the upside is that it's ready to drink now, so you won't need to wait years to enjoy it.

97 points Toni Paterson MW winecompanion.com.au

Trophy Best Semillon Royal Melbourne Wine Show 2024

Brokenwood’s ILR Reserve Semillon is a flagship example of aged Hunter Valley Semillon, released only from the best vintages and held back in the winery’s cellars until it reaches early maturity. The “ILR” stands for Iain Leslie Riggs, Brokenwood’s long-time chief winemaker and managing director, whose leadership cemented the estate’s reputation for world-class Semillon. Fruit for the ILR comes from some of the Hunter’s most prized Semillon sites, planted on free-draining sandy loam soils that yield grapes of purity, low alcohol, and remarkable longevity. The style is made without oak, focusing entirely on pristine fruit and the slow evolution that comes with time in bottle.

In the glass, the ILR Reserve Semillon shows a golden hue that reflects its bottle age. The bouquet is complex and layered, with aromas of lemon curd, lime zest, and white florals unfolding into honey, toast, and lanolin as it opens. The palate is vibrant yet textural, with preserved lemon, ripe apple, and almond notes carried by a still-bright line of acidity. Its mouthfeel is silky but taut, and the finish is long, savoury, and mineral-edged, demonstrating why Hunter Semillon is so revered for its ageing potential.

Perfect pairings include butter-poached lobster, grilled whiting with capers, roast chicken with tarragon, or soft, creamy cheeses like triple-cream Brie. While ready to drink upon release for its evolved complexity, the ILR Reserve can easily cellar for another decade or more, deepening in savoury richness and developing hallmark honeyed and toasty layers.