2018 Domaine Hubert Lignier Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru, Burgundy

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from the Mazoyères side. It has a very attractive bouquet of black cherries, wild strawberry, cola and touches of brown spices. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, the 30% whole bunch lending a subtle earthiness on the midpalate, although I would like a little more substance to show on the finish. Enjoy this over the next 15 years.

92-94 points Neal Martin vinous.com

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is showing very well, unwinding in the glass with a deep bouquet of red berries, cherries and cassis mingled with hints of smoked meats, black truffle and loamy soil. Full-bodied, concentrated and enveloping, its ample core of lively fruit is framed by a muscular chassis of ripe, powdery tannins.

93-95 points Willliam Kelley robertparker.com

Laurent Lignier has once again produced a fine vintage for both his domaine holdings and négociant sources—the latter, amounting to some 3.5 hectares of vines, now clearly distinguished in our reviews. As readers will know, winemaking is pretty classical at this address, with a short cold maceration, two to three weeks' maceration with one pigéage and one rémontage per day, and maturation in barrels, some third of which are new—if possible, without racking—for fully 22 months. Lignier began picking on September 4 and finished eight days later, reporting finished alcohols which, with only a couple of exceptions, are below 14%. The two pieces of news are the Lignier is now certified organic since May 2019, and that he is producing a new cuvée of Clos de la Roche, the story of which is told in the accompanying tasting notes.

From one of Gevrey Chambertin’s most seductive Grand Cru climats, this Charmes Chambertin shows the perfumed, silky side of the appellation while retaining true Grand Cru depth. Domaine Hubert Lignier is revered for traditional, low intervention Burgundy, with a focus on purity, balance and long lived structure. Charmes Chambertin sits on limestone and marl soils that favour finesse, aromatic lift and layered texture, producing wines that are often more immediately expressive than some neighbouring crus, yet still built for serious ageing. Lignier’s classical élevage allows the vineyard’s natural charm and complexity to take centre stage.

The colour is a deep ruby garnet with fine clarity. Aromas are beautifully layered, offering black cherry, raspberry and wild strawberry, followed by rose petal, Asian spice, forest floor and a subtle mineral note. The palate is supple yet structured, with generous red and dark fruit, fine grained tannins and a vibrant acid line that gives lift and length. There is a silky, flowing texture through the mid palate, finishing with savoury nuance and gentle earthiness that mark it clearly as Grand Cru.

Exceptional with roast duck, veal, beef bourguignon, truffle dishes and aged Comté. Built to cellar for twenty to thirty years, it will evolve toward greater spice, sous bois and tertiary complexity.