2018 Francois Chidaine Baudoin, Loire Valley

 
The aromatic profile is lifted and minerally, with a suggestion of sweetly desiccated fruit, but bright, nicely framed and poised. The start of the plate is delicious, harmonious and composed, with silky fruit, sweet with mirabelle and yellow peach character, supported by a fine-boned spindle of acidity running through the middle of it all. Well balanced and fresh, with lovely bitterness and life in the finish. Long and dry and bitter, this has real promise.

95 points Chris Kissack thewinedoctor.com
 
The 2018 Baudoin is one of the standouts in this range. Beautifully textured and rich, the Baudoin somehow manages to do that while remaining gracious and light on its feet. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried pear and almond are some of the nuances that open in the glass. I especially admire the wine’s silkiness and overall sense of finesse. Yellow flowers, ginger and citrus linger on the lifted finish. The Baudoin is not as obvious as some of the other wines in the range. It’s beauty and pedigree are all about understatement.
 
94 points Antonio Galloni vinous.com

The notes on Les Argiles explain why this great Vouvray isn’t named as so on the label, but rather as Vin de France. In addition, the word ‘clos’ cannot be applied to a Vin de France, so for now, the wine that should be known as Clos Baudoin—for the legendary vineyard where it is grown—is currently simply sold as Baudoin.

Regardless, as followers will know, since purchasing the Clos in 2001, Chidaine’s (biodynamic) management has replaced Clos Baudoin on its throne as one of the few ‘Grand Cru’ Vouvray vineyards. Sitting on the crest of a hill and elevated over the surrounding countryside, the Clos Baudoin vineyard is 2.7 hectares in size with an average vine age of over 70 years. The soils are clay and limestone, with a deep limestone (tuffeau) subsoil. Despite this being a stunning drink, a deep and powerful release that already offers a lot of generosity, the 2018 Baudoin nonetheless begs to be cellared further.

From one of Vouvray’s most revered biodynamic sites, this Chenin Blanc reflects the limestone richness and quiet power of Le Clos Baudoin. François Chidaine is a leading figure in Loire Valley biodynamics, farming old vines on tuffeau limestone soils that deliver remarkable texture, minerality and ageing potential. Clos Baudoin is known for producing Chenin Blanc of depth and structure, balancing ripe orchard fruit with tension and saline lift. The style is serious and site driven, built for both immediate pleasure and long term evolution.

Pale gold in colour, the aromas are layered and complex, showing quince, pear and baked apple, followed by honey, chamomile, citrus peel and a distinct chalky mineral note. The palate is medium to full bodied and textural, with concentrated orchard fruit, bright acidity and a long, saline finish that speaks clearly of its limestone origins. There is a savoury edge and gentle phenolic grip that add depth and food friendly appeal. Superb with roast chicken, pork, scallops, creamy poultry dishes and aged cheeses. While compelling now with air, it will cellar beautifully for ten to twenty years, gaining beeswax, toast and nutty complexity.