2019 Francois Chidaine Les Tuffeaux Montlouis, Loire Valley

Off-dry. This gorgeous, pulpy Chenin Blanc is drawn from the second, later pickings across a range of Chidaine’s old Chenin plots (including the Clos du Volagray, Saint-Martin and Les Grillonnières) that have stony soils which are heavy in yellow limestone, or tuffeau. These vines range in age from 30 to 90 years and are always cropped at tiny yields. The wine fermented with native yeasts, then matured in 620-litre demi-muids for 10 months.

François Chidaine does not produce this cuvée every year; when he does, it’s a case of run, don’t walk. It ended up with 10 g/L residual sugar (low for this wine—the 2020 has 14.8 g/L), which is rendered almost imperceptible by the balancing mineral and saline energy that runs like an arrow through the palate. Again, expect great length, intensity and pulpy succulence over a mouthwatering mineral backbone. It sings on its own or with some charcuterie but will take you to another realm when paired with southeast Asian flavours and textures.