2018 Francois Chidaine Montlouis Brut Tradition Magnum 1.5L, Loire Valley

Yes, there are probably Champagnes around the market at this price, but you get what you pay for: those Champagnes come from high yields, chemical viticulture and industrial-scale wine production. This wine, on the other hand is made entirely from old-vine, biodynamically farmed, hand-harvested fruit, cropped at a very low 35 hectolitres per hectare (almost unheard of in Champagne). The base wine was also wild-fermented in old 600 litre barrels.

To be specific, this Montlouis non-dosé is 100% Chenin Blanc from the flinty (les perruches) sites of Le Volagray and Les Landes, as well as the more clay and limestone dominant (aubuis) sites of Clos Renard and Les Epinais. Chidaine picks his grapes for sparkling wine at about 11.5 to 12.5 degrees of potential alcohol (i.e., flavour-ripe) as he wants his terroir to shine through.

François Chidaine Montlouis Brut Tradition is a quietly brilliant Loire Valley sparkling wine that showcases Chenin Blanc in its most precise, mineral driven and food friendly form. Sourced from vineyards around Montlouis sur Loire, just across the river from Vouvray, the fruit grows on classic tuffeau limestone soils that give natural acidity, chalky texture and remarkable finesse. The cool continental climate preserves freshness, making this an ideal place for traditional method sparkling wines with real character.

François Chidaine is one of the Loire Valley’s great modern voices and a leading advocate for biodynamic viticulture. His deep understanding of Chenin Blanc and his sensitivity to site shine through even in this sparkling cuvée. Everything is handled with restraint and patience. The wine is made using the traditional method, with secondary fermentation in bottle and extended time on lees to build complexity while retaining clarity and energy.

In the glass, the wine is pale and finely beaded, with a persistent, delicate mousse. Aromas are subtle but layered. Green apple, lemon zest and white pear lead, followed by hints of quince, citrus blossom and fresh bread dough. There is a gentle mineral, chalky note underneath that speaks clearly of Montlouis’ limestone soils.

On the palate, it is crisp, vibrant and beautifully balanced. Citrus and orchard fruit flavours are carried by bright, mouthwatering acidity, with lees ageing adding a soft creaminess and fine texture through the mid palate. The finish is dry, clean and mineral, lingering with citrus peel and a savoury edge that invites another sip.

This is a sparkling wine that excels at the table. It pairs effortlessly with oysters, shellfish, sashimi, light poultry dishes or anything that benefits from freshness and lift. While drinking beautifully now for its precision and vibrancy, it will also develop extra savoury complexity over the next five to seven years.

François Chidaine Montlouis Brut Tradition is elegant, honest and deeply expressive of place. A serious alternative to Champagne, and a reminder of just how compelling Loire Valley Chenin Blanc can be in sparkling form.