2018 Kilikanoon Tregea Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley

Low yielding fruit, hand-picked. Shouldn't this be the norm rather than bragging rights at this price? Admittedly, the range of Cabernets at this address is like no other. The saturation of fruit, miraculously fidelitous to variety and place, is impressive. Blackcurrant and mulberry; anise and tapenade; sage and bouquet garni, barrage across the mouth, staining every pore. Powerful, sure. But not galumphing. Long and impressive for the idiom. Like eating wine, rather than drinking it.