2019 Kooyong Farrago Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

It's a little shy at first, then gains confidence, starting to strut its stuff, delivering white peach and grapefruit, spiced up with ginger and a fleck of fresh herbs. The palate has depth and generosity, with the oak flavouring an interplay. Yet fine acidity keeps it tight, as moreish sulphides kick in, adding a savoury edge and a lingering finish.

95 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Chardonnay of the highest calibre. Minerals and pears kick off the array of aromas. Beautifully integrated oak, which is as close to invisible as one could wish. A hint of honeycomb, followed by stonefruit notes, a weave of grapefruit and nuts. An elegant and expressive chardonnay, nicely balanced. There is an underlying gentle, but pleasing, smoky touch. The wine offers good acidity and excellent length. A superb chardonnay in the more restrained sphere. More Grand Cru Chablis than Meursault. Great value when compared to what is asked for some other top flagship chardonnays.

95 points Ken Gargett