Now we are getting serious with the Koyama Single Vineyard Pinots which showcase North Canterbury’s rare quality with this variety. Deceptively light in colour, there is a haunting array of vibrant aromas – wild raspberry, undergrowth and slight gamey elements which provide an intriguing start. The palate then delivers a knockout blow with the classic steamroller in a velvet glove – immensely complex and at first delicate fruit that then builds layer upon layer of complex flavour. Pure silk in texture and underlined by streamlined acidity, the finish is long and enthralling, supported by fine tannins, tangy acidity and gentle oak. It’s also still a babe and will get even better over the next decade.