2018 Lethbridge Hugo George Sangiovese Biodynamic, Geelong

50% Sangiovese, 31% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Franc. Hugo George is not often made but when it is, it’s an absolute delight. Savory notes of sour cherries, lavender, and plump, juicy Victoria Plumbs. The back palate has a woodfired, smokey finish with sweet spices and cured meat.

The Hugo George, named after Maree Collis and Ray Nadeson’s son, is not made every year. In fact, in the last 20 years, this wine has been made on just five occasions. The Brunello vines on the Lethbridge property can be fickle and challenging to manage. The bunches are big, as are the berries, and the vines are vigorous. For Ray, low yields are key to the Lethbridge signature, so in a given year, he will drop up to 75% of the fruit. Merlot (31%) and Cabernet Franc (19%) make up the balance of the blend.

The batches fermented separately before being blended and matured for 15 months in new wood. The wine then rested in bottle for a further three years before release. Sweet and savoury with a lovely sour tang, it’s a plump, generous and wonderfully balanced wine. Ray sums the wine up nicely: “A picture-perfect marriage of flavour, texture, and richness.”