2019 McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Vineyard Chardonnay, Margaret River

All 3 single-vineyard Chardonnays are made in the same manner: hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, wild ferment in barrel (25% new) with full solids, partial MLF. This is perhaps my favourite (by a whisker) of these 2 single-vineyard chardonnays. It has a bitter phenolic kick through the finish that adds a layer of sparkle, interest and excitement to the wine and creates a salty undulation through the finish. It moves in a dappled way, this wine. I like it.

96 points Special Value Erin Larkin winecompanion.com.au August 2021

Grilled nuts, grapefruit pith, marzipan, nougat, brine and struck-match aromas, really complex and alluring. Focused and fine on the palate, which is tight, citrusy, pithy, layered and long. There's real power and drive in the fruit, but a finesse and elegance to it. The oak and acidity sit beautifully within the wine and create layers of sophisticated bliss. 12 Feb 2022 Drink 2022–2029

96 points Aaron Brasher therealreview.com

McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Vineyard Chardonnay from Margaret River is a precise, coastal-driven white that highlights the elegance and mineral tension of this iconic Chardonnay region. Crafted by winemaker Jacopo Dalli Cani, this single-vineyard wine captures the cool southern edge of Margaret River, where proximity to the Indian Ocean and ancient limestone soils shape fruit of striking purity and definition.

Calgardup Vineyard lies just three kilometres from the coast, in the Witchcliffe subregion, and is certified biodynamic. The site’s free-draining sandy loam over limestone brings a saline edge and chalky texture to the wine, while the maritime climate ensures a long, slow ripening season that preserves acidity and builds layered complexity.

Winemaking is minimalist and intuitive. Jacopo Dalli Cani hand-harvests the fruit at peak ripeness, followed by whole-bunch pressing straight to French oak barrels (around 20 percent new). Wild fermentation is encouraged, with the wine resting on lees for several months to enhance texture and build mouthfeel. A portion undergoes natural malolactic fermentation, depending on the vintage, to balance structure and richness.

In the glass, Calgardup Vineyard Chardonnay shows aromas of white peach, lemon curd, sea spray, and flint. The palate is finely textured and vibrant, offering citrus and stone fruit purity layered with nougat, cashew, and a savoury, chalky finish. It’s a wine that walks the line between refinement and power with ease.

This is a true expression of place, brought to life by thoughtful, detail-driven winemaking. Calgardup is one of the region’s rising Chardonnay stars, age-worthy, complex, and deeply rooted in the coastal soils of Margaret River.