2019 McHenry Hohnen Calgardup Vineyard Chardonnay, Margaret River

Lying just inland from the coast. Its sandy, schisty soils are well weathered. These Chardonnay vines run east-west with a slightly sloping northern aspect.

The nose opens with notes of sea spray, crushed shells, frangipani and delicate spiced pears. Wild fermentation with full solids provides flinty complexity and extended time on lees adds intrigue and excellent length to the palate. A distinctive saline acidity and attractive chalk-like structure complement the mineral nature of this unique Southern Margaret River vineyard near right by the Indian Ocean.

All 3 single-vineyard Chardonnays are made in the same manner: hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, wild ferment in barrel (25% new) with full solids, partial MLF. This is perhaps my favourite (by a whisker) of these 2 single-vineyard chardonnays. It has a bitter phenolic kick through the finish that adds a layer of sparkle, interest and excitement to the wine and creates a salty undulation through the finish. It moves in a dappled way, this wine. I like it.

96 points Erin Larkin winecompanion.com.au August2021