2018 Terroir Sense Fronteres Brisat, Monstant

Brisat is made from 75% Garnacha Blanc and 25% Macabeu from 15- to 35-year-old vines around Capçanes, grown at between 300 and 350 metres on sandy clay soils locally known as panal. The fruit is harvested earlier than typical for the area—when flavour is ripe but still with reasonable acidity. Montsant permits harvesting at 11% for whites which gives Huber flexibility to pick earlier than in Priorat and this 2018 finished at 12% ABV. Brisat in Catalan refers to wine fermented on skins, and unlike the first release—which was whole-bunch fermented—half the grapes were direct-pressed, with the other half skin-macerated for five to seven days. Fermentation took place with wild yeasts before resting on lees for six months in tank. Bottled unfiltered. Yum. 

Certainly brighter and purer and more floral than the 2017 version of this wine, it still has the wonderful, powdery grip and complexity from its time on skins. Serve it with a plate of Jamon Iberico and your day will be made.

The white 2018 Brisat named after skin contact in Catalan, even if the time the wine macerated with the skins has been shortened and the wine has less color and a fresher personality, with structure but with a crisp palate. In Montsant, they are able to harvest earlier than in Priorat (it's the same team as Terroir al Limit, of course), and the wine has a lively palate with a chalky texture and supple flavors. This is only 12% alcohol and has a nose of flowers and fennel and something stony. There are some 7,000 bottles of this.