2018 Thistledown The Vagabond Grenache, McLaren Vale

From old Blewitt Springs’ bush vines on deep sand, with some ironstone. Fermented using whole bunch, whole berry and crushed fruit, then aged in concrete eggs and oak. It has a lively, citrussy undertow and fine rub of sandpapery tannins to the fragrant red cherry and raspberry fruit. Violets, anise spice and fresh acidity make for a long, lifted finish.

96 points decanter.com

Deep red/purple colour. The bouquet is reserved and sweet, with herbal, green-stem, Turkish Delight and fresh earth aromas. This is medium to full-bodied and quite firmly structured within the grenache spectrum, a more structured style with length and firmness in the finish. Impressive stuff. 17 APR 2019 Drink 2019–2034

95 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

Hand-picked, wild-fermented, 33% layered passive whole bunch, half in a concrete pyramid egg, the remainder with 20% whole bunches, then a barrel selection. Delicious grenache, fresh and juicy, with a skein of fruit and oak tannins.

95 points James Halliday winecompanion.com.au  August 2020

Thistledown The Vagabond Grenache is one of the defining wines of modern McLaren Vale and a perfect example of why Grenache has become the region’s most exciting variety. Winemakers Giles Cooke MW and Fergal Tynan MW, the duo behind Thistledown, have made it their mission to champion old-vine Grenache from South Australia, and The Vagabond sits at the heart of that philosophy.

The fruit comes from centenarian bush vines rooted in sandy soils around Blewitt Springs and Clarendon, two of McLaren Vale’s most prized Grenache subregions. These ancient vines, dry-grown and low-yielding, produce tiny berries with intense flavour and natural balance. The elevated, sandy sites bring aromatic lift, while careful hand harvesting and minimal intervention in the winery allow the vineyard’s voice to come through. Whole bunches, wild ferments and gentle handling are key to the style.

In the glass, The Vagabond is both perfumed and powerful. Aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, blood orange and rose petal are woven with spice, anise and subtle earthy undertones. The palate is vibrant and layered, with silky tannins carrying flavours of red fruits, pomegranate and savoury herbs. There’s a mineral edge that keeps it poised, and a long, elegant finish that critics have compared to fine Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It is Grenache of grace and gravitas, capable of drinking beautifully in youth but with the structure to age 10 to 15 years.

Food pairings highlight its versatility. Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with rosemary, duck confit, Moroccan spiced eggplant or even woodfired pizza with charcuterie all showcase its depth and brightness. It also pairs beautifully with game meats and earthy dishes like mushroom ragù.