The village white 2019 Camino de Navaherreros Blanco wants to show San Martín de Valdeiglesias in a simple way through a blend of plots and varieties. 2019 was warm with a warm and dry summer and low yields but less ripeness than in 2017. This is approximately 50% Albillo Real, 30% Macabeo (or Viura), 15% Moscatel de Grano Menudo and 5% Garnacha Blanca with 12.7% alcohol that comes through as floral and fruit-driven, spicy, juicy and pleasant, easy to drink. It has very good freshness and acidity, and though it might not have the depth of the other whites, it's very pleasant. It matured in used oak barrels for nine months.
92 points Luis Gutiérrez robertparker.com
Biodynamic. Along with its reds, Bernabeleva is also gaining fame for its wildcard whites, which are based on the enigmatic Albillo grape. Sumptuously textured, earthy, pure, and often slow to unfurl in the glass, these are fantastically unique whites that are completely out-of-step with the prevailing trend for instant gratification. This is our first shipment of a new white bottling that draws heavily on the estate’s old-vine Albillo, blended with the estate’s younger, field blend plantings of Macabeo, Garnacha Blanca, Malvar and Moscatel. Harvested manually, the grapes were softly pressed into a combination of used oak barrels, large oak vats and stainless steel. Fermentation occurred spontaneously with wild yeast. Some of the wine went through malo and some did not. Striking a delicious balance between pulpy, weighted fruit and lacy minerality, the altitude sourcing is immediately apparent—fruit purity and soaring acidity carry silky weight and a slightly grippy texture born from a touch of skin contact. The finish is poised and balanced with grapefruit-like bitterness and a final saline nudge. Character!