2019 Bibi Graetz Testamatta, Tuscany

Yet another fine year, however some wines in 2019 - although not Testamatta - lacked a little concentration. Relatively light in colour, it's at the other end of the density scale to the wines of the early 2000s. There are piquant raspberry and redcurrant aromas and both the nose and palate show admirable delicacy and restraint. Very elegant and pure, its fine acidity gives excellent length and ageing potential. Drinking Window 2023 - 2036

95 points Stephen Brook decanter.com

 Very attractive combination of dried fruit and spices with black cherries and plums. Aromas of flowers and sandalwood, too. Full-bodied and very refined, yet intense, with plush, velvety tannins that are wonderfully integrated and intertwined with the fruit. Ripe center palate. Tight at the end, suggesting the need for some serious bottle age. Very structured. Try after 2025

97 points jamessuckling.com Feb 2022 

2019 Bibi Graetz Testamatta is a thrilling, high definition expression of Sangiovese that sits right at the intersection of power, purity and emotion. This is Testamatta in a slightly more classical, finely etched mode compared to some of the more opulent vintages, but it loses none of its intensity or collectability. It is a wine that feels alive, vibrant and unmistakably Tuscan, with huge appeal for both drinkers and collectors.

The fruit comes from some of Tuscany’s most prized old vineyards, spread across Chianti, Lamole, Montefioralle and Siena. Many of these vines are decades old and planted at altitude on rocky, well drained soils. These sites bring natural concentration, perfume and acidity, allowing Sangiovese to reach full phenolic ripeness without heaviness. The 2019 growing season delivered excellent balance, with warm days, cool nights and a long, steady ripening window that favoured precision and freshness.

Bibi Graetz remains one of Italy’s most individual winemaking voices. An artist by background, he treats wine as an emotional expression rather than a technical exercise. Testamatta, meaning crazy head, is his flagship statement. The winemaking is deliberately restrained. Natural fermentations, gentle extraction and ageing mainly in large old oak and concrete ensure that nothing masks the raw character of the fruit or the vineyard origins. This is Sangiovese with no make up.

Aromatically, the 2019 is striking and complex. Sour cherry, wild strawberry and red currant lead the way, followed by blood orange zest, rose petal and dried violets. With air, savoury layers build. Crushed stone, iron, balsamic herbs and subtle graphite emerge, giving the wine depth and a strong sense of place. There is clarity and lift, but also an underlying seriousness.

On the palate, the wine is energetic and structured. Bright red fruits surge first, then broaden into pomegranate, spice and savoury herbal notes. Acidity is vibrant and perfectly integrated, driving the wine across the palate and giving it length and tension. The tannins are fine grained and persistent, more architectural than aggressive, setting the wine up beautifully for long term ageing. The finish is long, layered and mineral, echoing red fruit, florals and earthy complexity.

This is a wine that rewards patience. While it can be enjoyed now with extended decanting, it is clearly built for the cellar and will evolve gracefully over twenty years or more. At the table, it shines with bistecca alla fiorentina, roast lamb, game, truffle dishes or deeply savoury Tuscan cooking. The 2019 Testamatta is confident, expressive and unmistakably collectible, a benchmark modern Sangiovese that continues to define Bibi Graetz as one of Tuscany’s most important producers.