2019 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Tuscany

In the bottle with the white artist label, the Castello Romitorio 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva offers more intensity and barbecue smoke, especially, but the fruit integration is just as seamless as the other wines in this flight. Along with dark fruit, you get spice, toasted almond, grilled herb and blue flower. It boasts sweet tannins and a soft, texturally rich finish. Only 6,306 bottles were created.

96 points Monica Larner robertparker.com

Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a majestic and deeply soulful Sangiovese created only in exceptional years at the hands of the visionary Sandro Chia and winemaker Stefano Franceschini. The ancient Romitorio estate lies high in the northwest of Montalcino where rocky galestro soils, steep exposures and cooling mountain air produce Brunello with power wrapped in finesse. The Riserva is selected from the most ageworthy parcels, harvested by hand and fermented slowly before resting for years in large oak casks. Long ageing in bottle allows the wine to gather extraordinary detail and harmony. This is Brunello that tells the full story of its landscape: wild herbs, forest edges and long sunshine days captured within regal structure.

The perfume opens slowly like the turn of a book. Black cherry, blood orange and dried strawberry begin the tale, followed by rose petals, violets and a little balsamic depth. Leather, truffle and tobacco leaf emerge as the wine breathes, along with warm terracotta and iron rich earth that are pure Montalcino. A hint of cocoa, anise and sandalwood promises a long journey ahead.

The palate is both commanding and graceful. Intense red fruit glides along fine chalk textured tannins that are firm but refined. Flavours of macerated cherry, pomegranate, dried herbs and savoury spice build in slow, unfolding layers. A streak of cool mineral energy keeps everything lifted and structured. The finish lingers with fruit, florals and earth for what feels like minutes. It will evolve majestically for two to three decades, deepening into aromatic woods, truffle, roasted nuts and velvety fruit while retaining its elegance.

A spectacular companion to bistecca Fiorentina, braised wild boar, mushroom tagliatelle, aged Pecorino or simply a quiet night dedicated to something profound. This is a Riserva that stands proudly among the greats of Montalcino.