2019 Crittenden Cri de Coeur Savagnin Sous Voile, Mornington Peninsula

Incredibly fresh, to the point more citrus flavours come to the fore rather than oxidative complexity alone. A hint of florals, camomile with some preserved ginger spice on the palate. Nutty, mouth-watering aldehydes and burnt butter, with some wood tannins adding volume. The all-important distinct acidity of savagnin keeps this lively from the first sip to the last. Another excellent addition to the lineage of this style spearheaded by Crittenden.

97 points Special Value Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Crittenden Cri de Coeur Savagnin Sous Voile from Mornington Peninsula is a rare and complex white wine, made in the traditional sous voile style, where the wine ages under a protective layer of yeast (or voile, meaning "veil"). This oxidative aging process, inspired by the wines of the Jura region in France, imparts distinctive nutty, savory, and umami-rich characteristics. Crittenden Estate, a family-run winery established in 1982 by winemaking pioneer Garry Crittenden, is known for its innovative and adventurous approach, focusing on alternative varieties and small-batch wines. Today, the winemaking is led by Garry’s son, Rollo Crittenden, who has brought fresh energy and precision to the winery while continuing to push boundaries.

Pale gold in color, this Cri de Coeur Savagnin offers a complex and intriguing bouquet of roasted almond, preserved lemon, and dried apple, with underlying notes of sea spray, fennel, and subtle spice. The palate is layered and textural, featuring flavors of baked apple, walnut, and lemon peel, with vibrant acidity providing balance and lift. The oxidative style brings depth and savory richness, while a saline edge and fine minerality add length and complexity to the finish.

This wine is a natural partner for umami-rich dishes like roast chicken with wild mushrooms, seared scallops with beurre noisette, or Comté and Gruyère cheeses. It also pairs beautifully with charcuterie, smoked trout, and risotto with aged Parmesan. While drinking beautifully now, Cri de Coeur has the structure and depth to evolve for 8–10 years, developing even more nutty and toasty complexity over time.

Crittenden Estate’s focus on experimentation and site expression has earned critical acclaim, with Cri de Coeur Savagnin Sous Voile standing as a benchmark for innovative Australian winemaking.