2019 d'Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale

This is resolutely old school, with ample appeal for those chasing full-fruited shiraz supported by a bold tannic framework. However, though there’s a little warmth here, this is no bigger-is-better wine. There’s dark brambly fruits, dried olive, plum and an earthy, ferrous mineral overlay. The tannins are dusty and rugged but not overwhelming, and the mid-palate happily avoids pooling rich fruits. The connection between fruit and structure has not yet synched, so a few years of rest will do this a favour.

93 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Dead Arm is a vine disease caused by the fungus Eutypa Lata that randomly affects vineyards all over the world. One half, or an ‘arm’ of the vine slowly becomes reduced to dead wood. That side may be lifeless and brittle, but the grapes on the other side display amazing intensity

More savoury than previous Dead Arms, the 2018 begins with dark fruits, damson plum, and lovely fennel seed twists. Rich balsamic glazed beets, roasted meats and jus give layers of complexity unlike anything we’ve ever seen. Superb balance. Slaty, persistent, mineral like tannins bring a generous framework for decades of cellaring. This is a wine of history and provenance. Highly collectable, The Dead Arm is considered by many to be one of the top Shiraz in Australia.