2019 Laherte Frères Blanc de Noirs Les Longues Voyes, Champagne

Disgorged November 2022

The 2019 Extra Brut Blanc de Noirs Les Longues Voyes 1er Cru marries Pinot Noir fruit character with notable tension and verve. Crushed rocks, slate, mint, dried flowers, kirsch and cedar lend tons of complexity. Sourced from parcels resting on silty clay soils in Montagne de Reims, this bottling is aged for an extended period in barrel on its fine lees (18 months). More than anything else, the 2019 sizzles with energy. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: November 2022.

93 points Antonio Galloni vinous.com

Les Longues Voyes translates as ‘the long way’, referring not only to the 25 kilometres that you need to travel from the Laherte estate to arrive at the vineyard but also to the wine’s extended aging: 18 months in barrel and a further 18-20 months in bottle.
The fruit is sourced from a single hectare of biodynamic vines in Chamery, Montagne de Reims, owned by a good friend of Aurélien Laherte’s. The 35-year-old vines are rooted in clay and silt over a limestone base. The wine was made from a single four-tonne press of grapes, which fermented naturally and matured in old Clos des Epeneaux and Leroux barrels. There was no malolactic conversion, and the dosage was 4 g/L.
So, the estate now has two vintage Blanc de Noirs released at the same time: Les Vignes d’Autrefois from Meunier and Les Longues Voyes from Pinot Noir. The first comes from a chalky subsoil and the second from limestone, and it is fascinating to compare the different structures that result. Fans of Pinot Noir on limestone should move to the front of the queue.

The Laherte Frères Blanc de Noirs Les Longues Voyes is a powerful and terroir-focused Champagne from one of the most exciting grower-producers in the region. Based in Chavot, in the Côteaux Sud d’Épernay, Aurélien Laherte has elevated the family domaine into one of the leading names in artisanal Champagne, working organically and biodynamically to craft wines of precision and energy. Les Longues Voyes is made from 100 percent Pinot Noir sourced from carefully selected parcels in the Montagne de Reims, matured in large oak barrels before extended lees ageing, producing a Blanc de Noirs of depth, purity and elegance.

In the glass it is a radiant golden hue with a fine, persistent mousse. The bouquet is complex and layered, with aromas of red apple, pear and wild strawberry, lifted by notes of brioche, hazelnut, white pepper and chalk. On the palate it is full-bodied and textural, with juicy orchard and red fruit flavours framed by vibrant acidity and a firm mineral backbone. Subtle spice and savoury notes from oak maturation add depth, while the finish is long, chalky and precise, leaving a lingering impression of power and finesse.

Food pairings highlight its intensity and structure: duck breast with cherry glaze, seared tuna, roast game birds, or richer seafood like lobster and scallops. It also pairs beautifully with aged cheeses such as Comté or Parmesan. With 10 to 15 years of cellaring potential, it will gain further complexity, developing honeyed, nutty and truffle notes while retaining its chalky freshness.