2019 Mailly Extra Brut Grand Cru, Champagne

Light-medium bright yellow colour. Red apple and pomegranate flavours abound, on both nose and palate, and the wine is open-knit and generous, with a cleansing and appetising dry finish that lingers well with harmony and refreshment. Seems pinot driven. And very appealing. 30 Aug 2025 Drink 2025–2031

93 points Huon Hooke, The Real Review

Mailly Grand Cru has one of Champagne’s more distinctive stories. Founded in 1929, the cooperative draws exclusively from vineyards within Mailly Champagne, one of the Grand Cru villages of the Montagne de Reims. Pinot Noir is the cornerstone here, thriving on the village’s chalk rich slopes, with Chardonnay contributing freshness and finesse. The result is Champagne with a strong sense of place rather than a house style assembled from fruit scattered across the region.

The 2019 Extra Brut is a vintage expression shaped by its low dosage, allowing the character of the fruit and chalky soils to come through with very little embellishment. Pinot Noir provides structure and depth, while Chardonnay gives the blend citrus lift and a finer edge. Extended lees ageing adds complexity and texture, but this remains a dry, energetic style rather than a rich or overtly creamy Champagne.

Bright pale gold with a fine, persistent bead. Lemon, crisp pear and yellow apple are joined by grapefruit and white peach, followed by brioche, toasted almond and hazelnut. Chalk, gentle spice and a faint saline note add another dimension. The palate is dry and focused, with citrus and orchard fruit carried by a fine mousse and mouthwatering acidity. Pastry and roasted nuts fill out the middle before grapefruit and chalk draw everything into a long, savoury finish.

Fresh oysters, Hokkaido scallops or tempura prawns make excellent partners, while crab tart, gougères or aged Comté bring out its nuttier, more developed side. Better still, put it on the table with a platter of seafood and let the bottle find its own way through dinner.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2037.