Very smoky aromas, showing generous spicy oak with a little free SO2, then a powerful palate with density, concentration and length. Lots of smoky, toasty oak and reductive nuances. Results in a full-bodied, dry and very savoury style. It would reward a little extra cellaring. It's built to age. (Vineyard is on a close-planted, north-facing site at 240m altitude on red volcanic soil at Wandin East. P58 clone. 20% new oak.)25 MAR 2021 Drink 2022–2031
95 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com
North-facing site at 240m elevation, on red volcanic soil at Wandi East, close planted in 1990 to P58 clone. Cropped 7.5t/ha. Hand harvested and sorted before whole-bunch pressing directly to 20% new French oak puncheons for natural fermentation. Matured on lees for 10 months post-ferment, followed by another 6 months in tank. Bottled after a single filtration. It might have a smidge more volume and ripeness compared with the exemplary 2017, but this is a very fine follow up. The same DNA. It's about harnessing the power. Expect citrus, flint and form. Length, precision and a mineral drive. The devil is in the details, according to winemaker Dave Bicknell. This wine is the embodiment – indeed the reward – of that.
97 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au 12 August 2021