2019 Pierre Gimonnet Fleuron Brut 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs, Champagne

Pierre Gimonnet is one of the great Chardonnay specialists of the Côte des Blancs, with the family growing vines in Champagne for generations and bottling under its own name since the 1930s. Today Didier and Olivier Gimonnet continue the family tradition from Cuis, working with an enviable collection of mature Chardonnay vineyards across the Côte des Blancs. Fleuron is their vintage cuvée, produced only when the year has the balance and character they are looking for.

The 2019 Fleuron is 100% Chardonnay, drawing on Premier Cru and Grand Cru vineyards across the family holdings. The warm, dry 2019 season delivered beautifully ripe fruit, but Chardonnay from these chalky sites retained the acidity and mineral structure that make the variety so compelling here. Fleuron sits in a lovely place stylistically, richer and more vinous than the house’s non vintage wines while retaining the cut and chalky energy that are unmistakably Gimonnet.

Pale gold with a persistent, delicate bead. Lemon, crisp pear and white peach lead into grapefruit and acacia blossom, followed by brioche, almond and a touch of hazelnut. There is chalk and oyster shell underneath, with subtle ginger and citrus peel appearing as it opens. The palate is finely textured and energetic, balancing ripe orchard fruit with bright acidity and creamy mousse. Lemon curd, toasted almond and chalk linger through a long, dry finish.

Freshly shucked oysters are an obvious temptation, but there is enough substance here for scallops with beurre blanc, grilled prawns, crab tart or tempura whiting. Our pick is the scallops, particularly with a squeeze of lemon and just enough butter to play with the wine’s developing brioche character.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2038.