Although it was purchased in 2003, Quealy's home vineyard was initially planted in 1982, making this Balnarring vineyard one of Mornington's oldest Pinot Noir sites. From that era just 17 rows of MV6 Pinot Noir remain, gifting their old vine fruit to Quealy's flagship Pinot Noir. The entire vineyard is located on a gentle north-facing slope, on shallow loams over clay. From 2019 these vines have been certified organic.
Seventeen Rows is Quealy's most profound wine. It is crammed with old-vine intensity and has serious structure--within the range, unique to the product of this site and these vines. 2018 was harvested in two tranches (the 1st and 6th March), entirely de-stemmed and wild-fermented in small, one-tonne pots. Only the free-run wine was then settled and racked to 300-litre barriques (33% new).
Kathleen Quealy's son, Tom McCarthy, is charged with the winemaking and I like the result. This follows the lighter-framed format of the other pinot noirs, but still has plenty of flavour. All spiced cherries and a dash of kirsch, pepper and earth, black olives and juniper. Supple tannins, lithe and plenty of enjoyment.