2021 Timo Mayer Cabernet, Yarra Valley

Made from fruit from from a north-facing slope on Hans and Anna Orth's vineyard on St Huberts Road in Coldstream; 100% whole bunches, 10% new oak. A saturated crimson purple. Made more in the style of the Loire Valley's Chinon than Australian cabernet sauvignon, there's a lot going on here with its aromas of blackberries and blackcurrants, together with salted licorice, black olives and spice-rack spices. Saline on the palate, with good depth of fruit and fine, dusty tannins, this is a wine to be enjoyed with food, now and over the next 5 or so years.

95 points Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

A cabernet with redcurrants, fresh herbs and spices with some cedar. It’s medium-bodied with creamy tannins and a savory finish. Succulent and delicious already. Drink or hold.

93 points jamessuckling.com

From the cool slopes of Bloody Hill comes a Cabernet that has become one of the most distinctive and cult expressions in the Yarra Valley. Timo Mayer, the German born, minimal intervention vigneron behind these tightly allocated releases, approaches Cabernet with whole bunch fermentation, wild yeasts and a fearless commitment to energy over polish. Produced in small quantities and snapped up quickly on release, it has built a strong following among collectors who appreciate savoury detail and structure rather than heavy handed oak. In the Yarra Valley’s cooler climate, Cabernet Sauvignon develops perfume, fine tannins and natural freshness, and Mayer leans fully into that style.

Deep crimson with bright ruby flashes, the aromatics are lifted and complex. Redcurrant, sour cherry and black plum sit alongside bay leaf, dried herbs and crushed violet. Whole bunch inclusion brings an extra layer of spice and stem nuance, adding tension and aromatic brightness.

On the palate it is medium bodied and finely structured, driven by vibrant acidity and chalky tannins. Red and black fruits glide across a savoury frame of graphite, tobacco leaf and subtle oak. The finish is long and composed, showing cool climate Cabernet with precision and personality rather than weight. It is structured, detailed and unmistakably Mayer.

Serve with rare roast beef, grilled lamb cutlets, charred eggplant or mushroom and lentil dishes. While compelling in its youth for its vibrancy and lift, it will cellar confidently for ten to fifteen years, developing leafy, earthy complexity and further integration.