2019 Voliero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Tuscany

A mentholated freshness introduces the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino, as a vibrant wave of crushed cherries, mint leaf, clove and dusty roses make up its absolutely gorgeous bouquet. This is silky and enveloping yet lifted and full of energy, with crunchy red berry fruits that leave a crackle of primary concentration toward the close. It finishes pretty saline and spicy in character, leaving edgy tannins to mingle with a residual bump of acidity that maintains a wonderfully fresh sensation as tart cranberry notes fade. This is one of the most exciting young renditions of Voliero I have ever tasted. It captivates with its precision and spry personality while holding depths of complexity in reserve. Wow.

I always look forward to tasting the Voliero next to the Uccelliera wines, as they really display the stark differences in site. While Uccelliera is all about showing Castelnuovo dell’Abate terroir from top to bottom, Voliero hails from a combination of higher-elevation sights within Castelnuovo dell’Abate, as well as parcels in Sant’Angelo in Colle. Voliero is also refined in large oak casks for 30 months, versus the Uccelliera, which spends 24 months in a combination of French and Slavonian oak. In most vintages, the Voliero has a more nervous personality and mineral core, which I mean in the best possible way. The 2019 is no different. There’s an energy and precision here that is wildly attractive. This year, deciding between the two wines was like splitting hairs. They are equally impressive for entirely different reasons.

96 points Eric Guido vinous.com Jan 2024

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino DOCG from Tuscany is a wine that truly embodies the essence of one of Italy’s most prestigious wine regions. Produced in the famed Montalcino area, this Brunello is crafted with passion and expertise, showcasing the region’s ability to create wines of exceptional depth and complexity. Winemaker Gianni Brunelli, the driving force behind Voliero, ensures that every step of the winemaking process respects the land’s unique terroir and long-standing traditions, while incorporating modern techniques to produce a wine that is both timeless and approachable.

The grapes for this Brunello are sourced from carefully selected vineyards in Montalcino, where the combination of clay, limestone soils, and the area’s microclimate gives the Sangiovese Grosso (the primary grape of Brunello) an optimal environment to ripen slowly and develop concentrated flavors. After a meticulous harvest, the grapes undergo fermentation in temperature-controlled tanks, followed by an extended maturation period in large oak barrels, which adds a layer of complexity without overpowering the pure fruit character.

In the glass, Voliero Brunello di Montalcino reveals a deep, ruby-red color that hints at the wine’s richness and aging potential. The nose is intense and aromatic, with inviting aromas of ripe cherries, blackberries, and plums, complemented by subtle hints of dried herbs, tobacco, and earthy undertones. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied with a firm yet smooth tannic structure, supported by vibrant acidity that provides balance and freshness. The fruit flavors are bold and concentrated, with additional notes of leather, spice, and a touch of vanilla from the oak aging. The finish is long and elegant, with the tannins softening over time, making this Brunello a wine that will evolve beautifully with age.

Voliero Brunello di Montalcino is a wine that pairs beautifully with rich, flavorful dishes. It’s perfect with roasted meats, such as lamb, beef, or game, as well as hearty pasta dishes, particularly those with rich tomato or truffle-based sauces. It also pairs well with aged cheeses like Pecorino or Parmigiano Reggiano. With its incredible aging potential, this wine can be enjoyed now or cellared for many years, developing further complexity as it matures.