2020 Alkimi Grenache, Heathcote

This 2020 Grenache shows nuanced winemaking including some whole bunch fruit and extended skin contact with quite ethereal aromas of red earth, game, spice and sweet spicy red cherries. It is a fleshy, satisfying expression with a gentle twist of tannin holding up a lingering finish. Delicious now and for a little while.

91 points Angus Hughson for Wine Pilot, September 2024

Stuart Dudine launched his one-man-band Alkimi in 2014. The name comes from the phonetic spelling of alchemy, the ancient practice of transforming base materials into gold through a blend of science, philosophy, and mysticism. For Stuart, these aren’t abstract ideas, but rather a way to stay connected to the land, his craft, and the intentions behind every wine he makes.

He eschews formulas, but favours natural acidity, wild yeasts and wines that are stabilised naturally. No fining agents, mostly unfiltered and minimal amounts of sulphur. For him, being a small producer isn't a limitation, but rather an advantage that allows attention to detail that is not possible at scale.

Stuart’s focus is on Yarra Valley which he believes to have great potential for the Rhône varieties and styles. He began farming an established Marsanne vineyard at Mount Evelyn in 2017, but the admiration for Rhône varieties and styles has its foundations in his formative years, learning from some of the best proponents of those wines: Stéphane Ogier, Château Mont-Redon, Henschke and Yarra Yering. He also sources fruit from other regions of Victoria, always looking for the best growing conditions for each variety.

The fruit for this single vineyard grenache was grown in the northern reaches of the Heathcote region, famous for its red Cambrian soils. 2020 was a warm and dry season producing low yields of concentrated fruit that required careful handling at the winery. Stuart’s approach was to make a warm climate version of Pinot Noir. The fruit was hand-picked and wild fermented with whole bunches. Extended skin contact was used to build up structural tannins for a variety that is inherently soft in nature.

High-toned aromas of half the spice shop and sweet red fruit meet on the nose and slowly reveal notes of warm leather and small air-dried sausages. The fleshy fruit flavours echo the nose, the palate feeling smooth and warm with a gentle grip of tannins.

Late-night feels in this wine. Debriefing on a Friday night? Northern style stir-fried beef with cumin. Bit more time on hand? Catalan rabbit paella. Enjoy.