2020 Bernard Defaix Petit Chablis, Burgundy

The plot is located above Vaillons, and rarely for Petit Chablis, on kimmeridgian soil, in a very stony spot. Attractive mid lemon colour, a stony-style bouquet to the extent of a certain smokiness. Fleshes out in the middle of the palate to a clean attractive finish. Good choice for those who want to keep to the classic style.

87 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Screwcap. Certified organic. The lion's share of Defaix's Petit Chablis is drawn from a parcel of Kimmeridgian-based soil, unlike most Petit, which generally comes from the lower-lying sites on Portlandian limestone. But, it's not necessarily the type of limestone, but more the location, that makes the difference. This small parcel is very well situated on the slopes above Milly and Vaillons; in recent years, two small parcels in Poinchy and Beines have been added to the roster to flesh out some volume.

Straight out of the box, the 2020 reflects these cool, stony soils alongside the sleek depth of the vintage. Filled with crushed rock minerality, mouth-watering, ripe stone fruits and a waft of sea breeze, it's a pulpy and classically structured wine, with a rocky texture complemented by racy freshness and Chablis-level length. Again, this vintage leaves most Petit Chablis for dust, and it is one of the best examples we have shipped.