2020 Bibi Graetz Testamatta, Tuscany

Wild roses and wild strawberries, the nose has a lovely fragrance and expression. Lifted and bright, this has such a beautiful delicacy to it, a creamy, chalkiness comes from the fine tannins with bright, succulent strawberry and raspberry leaf elements. You feel the savoury side too, the sweet vanilla spice and dried herb aspect which counter the fruit and the high acidity. I adore the finesse here, the sharp fruit giving the energy and the chalky texture giving the layers. Feels well controlled, powerful yet delivered with poise. It doesn't have so much overt weight, it's definitely more ethereal in terms of density, but the nuance of flavour is thrillingly captivating and this has a long lifted finish. A contemplative wine that keeps you wanting more and more. Made in new winery facilities in Fiesole. Grapes were picked from the best six vineyards; Vincigliata, Olmo, Londa, Lamole, Montefili and Siena with each divided into parcels and harvested up to eight times to get the perfect ripening points. Natural and indigenous fermentation in open top barriques (225l) for smaller parcels and 50hl cask or stainless steel tanks for larger plots. After 7-10 days of maceration, the parcels are moved into old barriques and 50hl casks for 20 months.

97 points Georgina Hindle decanter.com

Bibi Graetz has long been tinkering with his formula for this wine, and this vintage represents a new chapter. The 2020 Testamatta is a blend of Sangiovese from old and new vines, with a priority on cooler growing conditions (and even a few northern exposures). In the wake of climate change, and in the pursuit of elegance, Bibi is changing his approach. He also has a new vineyard property near Fiesole, and the introduction of these grapes (from a breezy, high-elevation site) are what gives Testamatta its beautiful clarity, sharpness and lifted bouquet. The new Fiesole fruit makes up about 30% to 35% of this wine. The results are vibrant, transparent and fresh both in terms of acidity and aromatic intensity. This is a wine in transformation and a wine to watch.

95 points Monica Larner robertparker.com

The Bibi Graetz Testamatta is one of Tuscany’s most distinctive and artistic wines, both in style and in spirit. “Testamatta” means “crazy head” in Italian — a playful nod to winemaker Bibi Graetz himself, who left behind a career in painting to channel his creativity into winemaking. Based in Fiesole, just outside Florence, Graetz started in 2000 with tiny parcels of old-vine Sangiovese, often from neglected vineyards high in the hills. His focus has always been on authenticity, freshness and the purest expression of Sangiovese, crafted with minimal intervention and a deep respect for tradition.

Testamatta is made predominantly from old-vine Sangiovese, some over 80 years old, grown on rocky soils of galestro and clay-limestone at high elevations. The combination of old vines, low yields and altitude gives the wine exceptional aromatic lift, depth and balance.

In the glass, it is a luminous ruby red. The bouquet is intensely perfumed with wild cherry, raspberry, violets and rose petals, layered with savoury herbs, spice, graphite and a hint of tobacco. The palate is elegant yet powerful, showing bright red fruit, blood orange zest, fine minerality and silky tannins. It has an almost Burgundian finesse, while still carrying the depth and savoury edge of great Tuscan Sangiovese. The finish is long, pure and precise, leaving an impression of both freshness and complexity.

Food pairings suit refined Tuscan cuisine: tagliata di manzo with rocket and parmesan, truffle risotto, roast lamb with herbs, or aged pecorino. With 15 to 20 years of cellaring potential, Testamatta develops into something truly profound, revealing layers of leather, dried flowers and earthy spice.

Critics have consistently praised Testamatta as one of the finest pure Sangiovese wines outside Brunello, often comparing it to Grand Cru Burgundy for its perfume and texture. James Suckling has described it as “one of the most beautiful wines in Italy,” with recent vintages frequently scoring 97–100 points.