2020 Candea Blanco, Monterrei Galicia

Candea is the entry-level label from Quinta da Muradella, sourced from the Monterrei vineyards of José Luis Mateo’s close friend (and now collaborator) Juan José Vilela. The Vilela family was once one of the region’s largest vineyard owners and played a significant part in Mateo’s emergence as one of Spain’s most exciting wine growers. The white is an equal blend of Doña Blanca, Treixadura and Verdelho, sourced from mature, high-altitude vines in the Tamagos district, close to the Portuguese border. Fermented with natural yeasts and raised exclusively in tank on lees, this bright, savoury south Galician white is brimming with mouth-watering length, pulpy flesh and some pleasant grip on a tonic and racy finish. What value! It's a must-try.

José Luis Mateo is considered by many the best vigneron from Galicia. He works 18 hectares of vine in Monterrei, 15 of them owned and certified organic since 2005. He produces 35,000 bottles of a changing portfolio with many new, unusual and some almost experimental wines sometimes not easy to follow but incredibly good. Without a doubt, the best address in the appellation. The whites are super austere and fresh, like granite water, really balanced.