2020 Ch Lafon-Rochet, St-Estèphe

Attractive, well-paced fruits, plenty of clarity to the flavours, together with a feeling of linearity to the tannins. Austerity through the mid-palate constrains the brambled cassis fruit, but things build back up again and this is a measured, successful wine that will age well. 3% Petit Verdot completes the blend. First year with Eric Boissenot accompanying Jean-Claude Berrouet as consultants.

93 points Jane Anson, Decanter

Blackberry and spice with firm, chewy tannins that show polish and focus. It’s medium-to full-bodied with excellent energy. Blackberry and blackcurrant character on the finish with a touch of cedar and spice.

93-94 points James Suckling

Château Lafon Rochet is one of the fourteen classified growths of Saint Estèphe, ranked Fourth Growth in the 1855 Classification. The property sits between Château Cos d’Estournel and Château Lafite Rothschild, an enviable patch of northern Médoc real estate. The Tesseron family transformed the estate during more than six decades of ownership before it was acquired in 2021 by Jacky Lorenzetti, whose Bordeaux holdings also include Château Pédesclaux and Château Lilian Ladouys.

Cabernet Sauvignon leads the vineyard, supported by Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, planted across the deep gravel and clay soils that give Saint Estèphe its distinctive combination of power and freshness. The 2020 vintage was warm and dry, yet the appellation’s clay soils proved particularly valuable in retaining moisture. Lafon Rochet emerged with excellent concentration and structure, but also enough freshness to keep everything beautifully controlled.

Deep crimson with cassis, blackberry and black cherry, followed by violet and dark plum. Cedar, graphite and tobacco gradually emerge, joined by liquorice, cocoa and a little dried thyme. The palate is concentrated and firmly structured, with dense black fruit framed by fresh acidity and fine, persistent tannins. Cassis and plum move through graphite, cedar and earthy spice before a long, savoury finish.

Slow roasted lamb with rosemary and garlic will happily take on its structure, while duck with lentils, porcini and beef pie or grilled portobello mushrooms with puy lentils and thyme are excellent alternatives. It is still youthful, so a couple of hours in a decanter will help enormously if curiosity gets the better of you.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2045+.