2020 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Magnum 1.5L, Southern Rhone

Beaucastel's 2020 Chateauneuf du Pape is shaping up as a blend of 30% each Grenache and Mourvèdre, with 10% each Counoise and Syrah, plus 20% other permitted varieties, including a healthy proportion of white grapes. Complex and red-fruited, with hints of flowers and garrigue, it's expansive and richly textured on the palate, finishing long and silky.

Always one of the highlights of my visits in Chateaneuf du Pape, the cellars at Beaucastel were a bit dusty when I arrived, as the long-awaited expansion had just gotten underway. Built using the latest practices in sustainability and conservation, it's expected to be completed in 2024. The 2021 Syrah had just been picked, and the expectation was that the Grenache would be harvested beginning the following day. Something worth noting, although the family doesn't actively promote it, is that Beaucastel's farming has been certified organic since 1966, and the vineyards have been farmed along biodynamic principles since 1974 (although not certified as such). Marc Perrin and his cousin César Perrin, who conducted the tasting, are high on the prospects for 2020, which they compare to 2016. "It was a beautiful summer, all the way through October," said César. "What I really like is the finesse of it," said Marc. "With global warming, Mourvèdre is performing better and better here." Their opinions aside, don't discount the bottled 2019s, which are also excellent. The 2019 Hommage à Jacques Perrin is simply stupendous, and not to be missed by serious collectors. As always, my visit here included a substantial lineup of the Famille Perrin wines from other appellations, which will be included in the next installment of my Southern Rhône coverage.

95-97 points Joe Czerwinski robertparker.com

Fresh and bright nose, then a palate with exceptionally smooth and fine tannins, lovely acidity and notes of blackberry and raspberry juice. Particularly fine, elegant and balanced this year. Grenache and Cinsault fermented in cement, Syrah and Mourvèdre fermented in foudre.

96 points Matt Walls decanter.com