2020 Clos Clare Museum Release Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley

Clos Clare has its origins as a sub-division of the historic Warilto homestead, also home to the famed Florita vineyard in the Watervale subregion of Clare Valley. Local legends from Leo Buring to Tim Knappstein, Jeffrey Grosset and Nick Walker have all contributed to Clos Clare’s reputation as of one the region's most characterful Rieslings.

Its current custodians are Tom and Sam Barry, grandsons of Clare Valley pioneer Jim Barry and the third generation of a family that has shaped this region for decades. The brothers bring the same instinct for site and variety that runs through their family's history, but through their own voice and new ideas. Tom studied oenology and worked vintages with Erni Loosen in the Mosel and Bert Salomon in the Kamptal before returning to Clare.

The 2020 vintage brought warmth and low rainfall to Clare, but producers who managed canopy well and limited sun exposure made wines of real quality. The dry-grown vines were hand-harvested, chilled for 18 hours, then carefully pressed with attention to phenolic levels. The juice was cold settled for four days before fermentation with neutral yeast over three weeks, then left on light lees for eight weeks before bottling.

The 2020 is hitting its stride. The primary citrus brightness of youth has given way to greater complexity. Lime and lemon zest are still present but now layered with developing notes of toast, honey and that distinctive mineral thread that defines great Watervale Riesling. The acidity that made this wine slightly austere on release now pulls everything into focus beautifully.

Clare Valley Riesling at this age is one of Australian wine's great bargains, and this museum release makes the case convincingly. Pour alongside freshly shucked oysters or grilled barramundi. Would also be nice with something like Cantonese white cut chicken.

Drink over the next three to five years as it continues to unfold.