2020 Domaine Auguste Clape Cornas, Northern Rhone

tasted four different components of the 2020 Cornas from foudre. From 40-year-old vines in La Côte, a medium to full-bodied sample with attractive menthol, red plum and violet notes, ample structure but a bit short (92 - 94). From 50- to 60-year-old vines in La Sabarotte, an earthier, more savory example, with a rich, velvety texture and crisp acids (93 - 95). From 60- to 70-year-old vines in La Côte, a wine that seems to have it all: intense cassis, crushed stone, licorice and black olives, plus amazing richness and length (97 - 99). And finally, from old vines in Reynard, a breathtaking, hauntingly floral rendition marked by purple raspberries and fantastic concentration (98 - 100). The blend should be terrific.

I met Olivier Clape in the new grape reception area across the road from the family's cellars, where a small amount of Saint-Péray was being processed. They now have a whole hectare in that appellation, a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne. Harvest had just started here on September 15, so there wasn't yet much else new in the winery. We went back across the road into the cellars for tasting among the old foudres. The 2020 wines surprised me for their concentration and balance. "It was a very early start to the vintage, one of the earliest," said Olivier. With yields down 20% and hot daytime temperatures in July and August, harvest began on August 24, even earlier than in 2003. According to Clape, who worked harvests with Bruce Neyers in California (2006) and Hätsch Kalberer at Fromm in New Zealand (2009), the balance is due to the cool nights, which meant the grapes retained more acidity than in other hot years. After tasting the 2019s and 2018s, we leapt back in time to try the 2011, which Olivier described as "a vintage everyone forgot. A big crop, but good acidity. Very fine." The bottle we tried was certainly drinking well, as was the even more impressive 2001—20 years after the vintage. This family estate continues to produce one of the benchmark wines of the appellation. Prices have risen, but the quality is in the bottle, and the Vin de France Le Vin des Amis and Côtes du Rhône offerings provide less expensive alternatives that give consumers delicious introductions to Northern Rhône Syrah.

95-97+ points JC robertparker.com

I met Olivier Clape in the new grape reception area across the road from the family's cellars, where a small amount of Saint-Péray was being processed. They now have a whole hectare in that appellation, a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne. Harvest had just started here on September 15, so there wasn't yet much else new in the winery. We went back across the road into the cellars for tasting among the old foudres. The 2020 wines surprised me for their concentration and balance. "It was a very early start to the vintage, one of the earliest," said Olivier. With yields down 20% and hot daytime temperatures in July and August, harvest began on August 24, even earlier than in 2003. According to Clape, who worked harvests with Bruce Neyers in California (2006) and Hätsch Kalberer at Fromm in New Zealand (2009), the balance is due to the cool nights, which meant the grapes retained more acidity than in other hot years. After tasting the 2019s and 2018s, we leapt back in time to try the 2011, which Olivier described as "a vintage everyone forgot. A big crop, but good acidity. Very fine." The bottle we tried was certainly drinking well, as was the even more impressive 2001—20 years after the vintage. This family estate continues to produce one of the benchmark wines of the appellation. Prices have risen, but the quality is in the bottle, and the Vin de France Le Vin des Amis and Côtes du Rhône offerings provide less expensive alternatives that give consumers delicious introductions to Northern Rhône Syrah.