2020 Domaine Barmes Buecher Hengst Gewurztraminer Grand Cru, Alsace

The extravagant nose of apricot and mango, with a wealth of wild-herb notes, pulls you inexorably into this magnificent dry riesling like a black hole sucking in a nearby star. Everything here is on a huge scale, but miraculously it all fits together and retains astonishing elegance for 14.5% alcohol. Long, cool finish with enormous wild-herb freshness. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

96 points jamessuckling 

The Domaine Barmès Buecher Hengst Gewurztraminer Grand Cru is an opulent and aromatic wine that reflects the grandeur of Alsace’s Hengst vineyard. Domaine Barmès Buecher, a biodynamic pioneer in the region, is celebrated for producing wines of exceptional purity and expression. This Gewurztraminer, sourced from one of Alsace’s most prestigious Grand Cru sites, exemplifies the estate’s dedication to terroir-driven winemaking.

The Hengst vineyard, located near the commune of Wintzenheim, is renowned for its limestone and marl soils, which contribute to the wine’s structure, intensity, and age-worthiness. The vineyard’s warm microclimate enhances the ripening of Gewurztraminer grapes, resulting in wines with profound aromatic complexity. The biodynamically farmed grapes are hand-harvested at peak ripeness and vinified with minimal intervention to preserve their natural character.

In the glass, the wine displays a radiant golden hue. The nose is intensely aromatic, with notes of lychee, rose petals, and ripe apricot, layered with hints of exotic spices, ginger, and honey.

On the palate, the Hengst Gewurztraminer is full-bodied and luscious, offering flavors of tropical fruits, orange zest, and a touch of sweet spice. A vibrant acidity balances the richness, leading to a long, complex finish with a signature mineral edge that reflects the vineyard’s limestone terroir.

This wine pairs beautifully with rich dishes such as foie gras, spicy Asian cuisine, or strong cheeses like Munster. It is also a delightful accompaniment to desserts featuring tropical fruits. With its robust structure and aromatic intensity, the wine has exceptional aging potential, developing even greater complexity over 10-15 years.