2020 Domaine Naturaliste Morus Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River

A wine that twists and turns with new nuances and riches at every turn, before it comes together and straightens to its long finish. This is the pure essence of Margaret River Cabernet with loads of dense concentrated black fruits coated with subtle blue fruit fragrances. The palate reveals layers of chocolate and blackcurrant with nuanced black olive and graphite showing a little oyster shell minerality. As it breathes, it opens revealing more. A super wine.’

97 points rayjordanwine.com

The 2020 season in Margaret River was low yielding, warm and compacted, and the wines are concentrated, structural and full of flavor. The 2020 Morus Cabernet Sauvignon marks the first time that the Morus is sealed under Stelvin, and it does have an impact on the wine in the glass. The vision is sharper, the flavors more distinct, the oak more clear to perceive. It tightens up all the edges, and I believe it is better for it. Admittedly, it may need a decant to bring it around to the open-weave approachability of the previous vintages, however, the freshness of the fruit is a thing to behold.

The fruit is 100% Wilaybrup Cabernet Sauvignon, 35-year-old Houghton selection clones. From 2016 – 2020 the vineyard remains true to the cuvée. Destemmed, the berries are split just enough to let some juice out and start fermenting. Undergoing a cool, long ferment in stainless (peak of 25 degrees Celsius), the cap is managed as required. As the fermentation progresses the management evolves. Post ferment, the wine is left on the skins for a further two to three weeks. It is matured in 225-liter French oak barriques (Taransaud, Jupilles, Allier, and "just a smidgen of Bertrand," 55% to 60% new) for 14-18 months, depending on the season. 14%, sealed under Stelvin! Drink 2023-2040

96 points Erin Larkin robertparker.com Jul 2023

The nose in incredibly complex and inviting with aromas of mulberries, dark chocolate, wild blackberries and cinnamon bark. The full-bodied palate has finely integrated tannins and acidity, giving notes of blackcurrants, violets, walnuts, graphite and licorice. Wonderfully vibrant and structured. Drink or hold.

95 points james Suckling

From the heart of Margaret River, Domaine Naturaliste has built a strong following for wines that combine regional purity with a polished, modern edge. Founded by Bruce Dukes, a highly respected winemaker with deep experience across Western Australia, the focus here is on site expression and precision, drawing fruit from some of the region’s best vineyards.

Morus Cabernet Sauvignon takes its name from the mulberry tree, a fitting nod to both flavour and structure. Margaret River’s maritime climate, with warm days and cooling ocean breezes, allows Cabernet to ripen evenly while retaining freshness and aromatic lift, a key part of what makes the region so compelling.

Deep ruby in the glass, the aromatics are expressive and layered. Blackcurrant and mulberry lead, supported by dark plum, bay leaf and a touch of violet. There is a classic Margaret River signature here, with hints of cedar, graphite and a gentle herbal note adding complexity.

The palate is medium to full bodied, with dark fruit flowing through fine, structured tannins. There is a seamless balance between fruit, oak and acidity, giving the wine both richness and precision. Notes of spice, cocoa and a subtle savoury edge build through the mid palate, leading into a long, composed finish.

This is a natural partner for dishes with depth and flavour. Roast lamb, grilled beef, or slow cooked short ribs all sit comfortably alongside its structure, while aged cheeses also work beautifully.

Drinking well now with a decant, though it will continue to evolve over ten to fifteen years, gaining further layers of complexity and softness.

There is a confident, polished feel here, a Cabernet that delivers both immediate appeal and the structure to reward time, reflecting the strength of both the region and the winemaking behind it.